While the glue was drying on the first wall, I had some time, so I started on the interior cabinet. Two cabinets, and the TV in the center. While sleeping, your feet will actually go under this cabinet.

The TV goes between the two cabinet doors. The microwave will go behind the TV in a cabinet in the galley.

Side view of the TV. A "home made" wall mount made of 3/4" ply sits the TV away from the pannel to allow for air to move, and also sits it far enough out from the doors so that a DVD can it the side with the doors shut.

Best picture I have of the pocket joints used to build the face frame. I used a Kreg jig to make these.

Gluing the 1/8" Baltic Birch to the frames. This will make the outside skin.

Both pieces of birch are glued down, I barrowed these pavers to use as weight to hold everything down while the glue cures.

This is an idea of what this thing will look like! Probably the last time you will see the wall frames.

Ah, a fresh piece of plywood, that is 3/4"x4'x10' to be exact

Lets figure out how big the door is going to be. This is called "engineering on the fly". You like my super expensive curve drawing device (AKA a scrap piece of pine)?

1st cut into this piece of ply!

This cut put the big curve on the back and took my length down to 9'

By the way, that circular saw is older than I am.

Some more engineering on the fly to figure out exactly where the shelves and cabinets will go. It looked good on paper, but when I got out in the real world, everything didn't fit how I wanted. But, its alright, just move things around, make it happen. Yes, I did manage to fit everything in, even the microwave and ice chest. 

 

1st hole cut

The rest of the holes are cut!

Otis showing off the first wall frame. Yes, after cutting out the door, this will be the wall frame. The holes will get foam insulation, and the frame will be skinned both sides with 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood.

I probably won't bother with pictures of the second wall frame, so I'll just tell you, I'm going to put the first wall on the second piece of 4'x10' plywood and trace it, holes and all. Then I'll cut everything out, stack both wall frames together, clamp, and put the belt sander to them to smooth out the curves and make the frames match each other exactly.  

These are the floor pieces. They have been treated with Henry's 107 roofing asphalt. When installed, the edges will fall on frame rails for support/water sealing.

I wish this turned out better, but this is how you flip a trailer over by yourself

Stabalizer jacks down

Stabalizer jacks up

The completed rolling chasis. It is 62" wide, and 106" long. The finished camper will be 64" wide, 9' long and 4' tall.

I had a few people ask, so here is the best shot I have of it.

That is a custom built Dexter TorFlex #9 torsion axle with 8" electric brakes. I had it de-rated from 2000# to 1500#

I have never built a trailer without using a spring set up before, nor have I towed this one with a load on it so please don't ask untill I have the project completed. All I can tell you is when I pulled it to the end of the block and turned around, it was a little bouncy as would be anything this light. 

Thats me!!!

The frame has a coat of primer and is half way through the first coat of paint.